Wednesday, 1 October 2014

Controller move from the rear to the front

 I've talked about what is under my rear black box for a while and this re-do of the bike gave me the opprotunity to show what is under the hood (to a point) the controller creates a lot of heat, so the box itself is a simple heat sink with a mess of wires of the controller coming out.  The wire hole is cocked with a sealant to prevent water from getting in, in the event that water somehow gets into the box itself.  

Then to stop the rattle noise I put a layer of industrial Velcro to the bottom, to prevent it from moving around. I didn't want to put more screws in.. As that leads to sharper objects that can rub against the wires.

Each wire reads a different sensor from the bike, such as breaks engaged (disconnects the power from the motor), if I am using PAS, the speed at which I am travelling, etc.  The main ones are the Yellow, Blue and Green.  These are the power and halo effects sensors.  The little red box is a simple shunt fuse I added in as a per-caution.

Lessons Learned: 

  • With a controller like this, take the time and map out which colour connects to which.  Both sides of the connector don't match up to each other and many of the connectors are the simple male/female two prongs.


  1. Why does the controller get so hot? Is this normal for controllers or the brand you have?

  2. All the electric bikes controllers heat up, it's just a thing they do. Every time you see a ebike, it has a controller in a huge heat sink, hidden somewhere on the bike. Best one I saw was a controller hidden under where the battery sites on the bike. The BIONIX ebike kits have the batter and the controller in a large water bottle mounted device. Which makes that case really big for no real reason.